Driving Tour - A Peninsula Drive

Start Take the M3 out of town; this follows the eastern flank of the mountain, providing access to the southern suburbs.

Finish Kloof Nek roundabout in town.

Time The full tour will take at least 1 full day.

Not all the sites listed below are must-sees; personal interest should shape your itinerary. Because this is a circular route, it can also be done in reverse, but the idea is to find yourself on the Atlantic seaboard at sunset.

Note: Part of Chapman's Peak Drive -- expected to reopen as a toll road by December 2003 -- is currently closed because of the danger of rockfalls. If the road has still not reopened, change the route as follows: After visiting Cape Point, head back to town via Ou Kaapse Weg and Silvermine Nature Reserve, rejoining the M4 north. If you haven't yet visited Kirstenbosch, you could do so now, time allowing. Alternatively, head through Constantia (past the Alphen Hotel), over Constantia Neck and descend into Hout Bay. You can drive the first section of Chapman's Peak before doubling back to follow the Atlantic seaboard, passing the coastal suburbs of Llundudno (a gorgeous little beach) and Camps Bay when the sun is setting. Finish the tour as below. Alternatively, travel along the M6 to Hout Bay, ascend part of Chapman's Peak, then wind your way over Constantia Nek to Kirstenbosch, then take the M3 to Kalk Bay and continue as below.

As you approach the Groote Schuur Hospital on your left, scene of the world's first heart transplant in 1967, keep an eye out for the wildebeest and mountain zebra grazing on the slopes of the mountain. Art lovers should consider taking the Mowbray turnoff to the:

1 Irma Stern Museum

Drop in at the Irma Stern Museum (Cecil Rd.; tel. 021/685-5686; Tues-Sat 10am-5pm; R7/90¢). A follower of the German Expressionist movement, and acknowledged as one of South Africa's best 20th-century artists, Stern was also an avid collector of Iberian, African, and Oriental artifacts, and the museum also exhibits new talents.

Back on the M3, still traveling south, you will pass Mostert's Mill on your left, another reminder of the Cape's Dutch past, and look out for a turning on your left to

2 Rhodes Memorial.

You can see the imposing memorial high up on the slopes on your right; the restaurant behind the memorial has awesome views so break for tea here if you have the time. Back on the M3 you will pass a series of imposing ivy-clad buildings -- the University of Cape Town, built on land donated by Rhodes. If you're interested in colonial architecture, you can make an appointment to visit Groote Schuur, also donated by Rhodes and designed by Herbert Baker, "the architect of the Empire," and up until the end of Mandela's term, the official government residence; call Alta Kriel (tel. 021/686-9100).

From here the suburbs become increasingly upmarket. Take the turnoff to:

3 Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens.

Consider visiting Kirstenbosch (you'll need at least an hour, preferably more) before heading through the suburbs of Bishop's Court and Wynberg for Constantia.

If you've decided against Kirstenbosch you may have time along the way to visit the:

4 Groot Constantia Estate.

You can visit the 17th century manor house and wine museum, and possibly try a wine tasting . Alternatively, set aside a full afternoon to travel the full Constantia Wine Route, visiting at least three estates.

Keep traveling south on the M3 until it runs into a T-junction, then turn left to the next T-junction where you join the M4; turn right and look out for Boyes Dr. or the:

5 Natale Labia Museum.

Note: For an elevated view with gorgeous coastal views, take Boyes Drive (clearly marked off the M4 before the Natale Labia Museum) to Kalk Bay. This short detour of the coastal route is often less congested than the narrow road that runs through the coastal suburbs of Muizenberg, St James, and Kalk Bay, though you'll miss much of the interesting architecture in what used to be the favored seaboard of the wealthy randlords. The Venetian-style Natale Labia Museum (Main Rd.; tel. 021/788-4106; Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; R3/40¢), once the home of the Count and Countess Labia, is a fabulous example. A satellite of the South African National Gallery, it occasionally hosts some very good exhibitions upstairs, but is in danger of closing due to lack of funds.

Another attraction on Muizenberg's Main Rd. (also called the Historical Mile) is:

6 Cecil Rhodes's Cottage.

This house (Main Rd.; tel. 021/788-1816; Mon-Fri 9:30am-4:30pm, Sat-Sun10am; donation welcome) is the place where Rhodes purportedly died -- a remarkably humble abode for a man who shaped much of southern Africa's history. For more information about this area, visit Peninsula Tourism (52 Beach Rd.; tel. 021/788-1898).

Continue on Main Rd. to the quaint fishing village of Kalk Bay.

Take a Break

Whether you've taken Muizenberg's main road or Boyes Drive, stop in at quaint Kalk Bay to browse the antiques shops, galleries, junk shops, and retro-modern boutiques. You can lunch here; try the excellent Olympia Deli for light meals, or, for ocean views try Cape to Cuba or Harbour House;.